If you are using the Haltech Elite for engine management on your build, then the Haltech Fuse Box is essential to have. Our custom made fuse box bracket is an easy bolt-on solution for mounting the Haltech Fuse box, that allows for a clean install.
Before starting, be sure to disconnect the battery. In the passenger side (for LHD cars) of the engine bay, near the ABS pump, unclip the grey and black connector and tuck it low, out of the way.
Next, disconnect the airbag connector (blue and orange) and reroute the connector underneath the ABS lines and then reconnect them.
Pull the air-bag wire harness out of the cable retainer above the strut tower and tuck the connector and wire harness under the ABS pump.
Step 2: Mount the Fuse Box Bracket
Line the fuse box bracket up so that the “IRP” logo is against the body and line up the bolt holes. Using the M6x12mm buttonhead bolts, fasten the bracket into place and tighten it down with the 4mm hex bit.
Step 3: Mount the Fuse Box
Place the fuse box in place on the bracket so that the bolt holes are lined up. Use the M5x10mm buttonhead bolts and 3mm hex bit to fasten and tighten the fuse box onto the bracket. To fasten the bolt on the left of the fuse box (closest to the firewall) you will need to use the extension to reach the bolt.
The installation is now complete. The IRP Haltech Fuse Box Bracket is extremely straightforward to install and allows for a clean install. If you haven’t already, you can purchase the fuse box bracket through our site by clicking here to visit the product page. As always, feel free to browse our site to find more parts for your rotary needs, or reach out with any questions. Happy brapping!
Building any car for high performance applications requires a lot of time and money. That’s why proper builds include reliability upgrades and fail-safes on top of performance modifications. With the already delicate nature of RX-7s, reliability and fail-safe measures are especially necessary in any heavily modified build. For most bolt-on only applications, the APEXi Power FC can handle engine management needs. However, the Power FC cannot offer the same level of safety measures that the Haltech Elite can.
We offer a custom mounting bracket that can support the Haltech Elite 1500 or 2500, CAN hub, and up to three expansion modules. The benefit of our bracket is that it fits into the stock ECU location with no modification and still allows for the kick panel to be put in place. In this guide we will go over how to assemble the mounting bracket with all the components so everything is prepared to be installed in your RX-7.
For our application, the expansion modules we are using are the I/O 12 Expander, TC2 Amplifier, and WB1 module. Your modules may differ depending on your build.
Using your Phillips head screwdriver, unscrew the left faceplates of your expansion modules. In our case we are using a TC-2 Amplifier, I/O-12 Expander, and WB1 Controller (the WB1 installation will be shown in Step 3).
With the faceplate removed, and the module face down, slide the top expansion slide so the stud is facing left and the bottom expansion slide so the stud is facing right. (The expansion slide orientation is important so the modules properly mount onto the bracket.)
After expansion slides are installed, reinstall the module faceplates.
Step 2: Fasten Modules on Expansion Plate
Mount the expansion module onto the bracket and fasten using the M3 washers and nuts.
Use your ratchet and 5.5mm socket to tighten the nuts.
Step 3 (optional): Install WB1 Controller
As mentioned earlier, we are using a WB1 module for demonstration purposes. This step is optional depending on whether you are using a WB1 or similar style module. You may skip this step if needed.
The WB1 mounts onto the bottom of the expansion bracket. With a washer on each side, mount the WB1 using the M4 socketheads.
Using both ratchets, use the 3mm hex bit to hold the sockethead and the 7mm socket to tighten the nut.
After the expansion module assembly is assembled and tightened, place aside.
Step 4: Assemble Upper and Lower Bracket with ECU
Starting with the lower mounting bracket (with the “IR” logo), mount the Haltech Elite so the bottom left hole of the ECU lines up with the middle hole of the lower bracket using an M5x12 bolt.
Using your 8mm socket and 3mm hex bit, tighten the bracket using the M5 nut and washer.
Holding the assembly facedown, mount the upper bracket onto the right side of the Haltech Elite so that the bottom hole of the ECU lines up with the bottom hole of the bracket. Fasten with the second M5x12, nut, and washer using the same tools as the previous step.
Step 5: Install CAN Bus
Mount the CAN Bus using the M4 countersunk socketheads.
Using your 7mm socket and 2.5mm hex bit, fasten the CAN Bus with the M4 nut and washer.
Step 6: Mount Expansion Bracket Assembly
With the ECU facedown, place the expansion assembly so the ears line up with the remaining holes. Use the M5x16, nut, and washer to fasten the two assemblies together.
With your 8mm socket and 3mm hex bit, tighten everything down.
After everything is mounted, assembled, and fastened down you are ready to install your Haltech Elite into your RX-7. If you haven’t already, you can purchase the mounting bracket through our site by clicking here to visit the product page. Feel free to browse our site to find more parts for your rotary needs, or reach out with any questions you may have. Happy brapping!
This installation is fairly straightforward but to properly do any installation you should understand how the system works, and why.
With the installation of aftermarket fuel pumps required for modified cars there is also a need for more amperage to power these pumps. The stock power wire just is not enough.
The solution is to install a relay in-line which will take the stock power wire and convert it to a relay trigger wire. The relay then takes power directly from the battery and powers the pump.
The power wire *White with a Red tracer* becomes a trigger wire in this case. It is the thickest gauge wire on the fuel pump connector.
Simply put, we interrupt this wire and use the wire to trigger the relay on, then send battery voltage directly to the fuel pump.
Simply cut the White Wire with the red tracer to get the 2 points to connect the relay which is explained in further detail below.
Relay Wiring Explained.
Yellow Wire: This Wire gets connected to a fuse (30 amp fuse provided) and connected to the battery directly.
Grey Wire: This wire goes to a chassis ground. Any bolt on the chassis should be fine. We prefer to use the star point ground behind the trunk plastic but any bare metal should work great depending on the installation.
Orange Wire: This wire goes to the body side of the White with Red Tracer wire cut in the above step.
Red Wire: This goes to the Fuel Pump side of the White with Red Tracer wire cut in the above step.
We will be posting a video in the coming months once we get to this video in the queue. We have many videos we will be posting in the future. We appreciate your patience.
In the recent months there has been some confusion and claims in the industry about how to tell an AUTHENTIC Walbro pump from a fake pump; commonly referred to as “Chinese Knock-Offs”. In an effort to help the community and increase awareness we have gone to some lengths recently to clear up this confusion.
There have been recent claims that the way to tell the difference is to simply look for a QR code printed on the pump itself which will prove its authenticity. This is gross misinformation from unreliable sources; this is not only untrue but these claims are made to make some businesses look more legitimate vs others.
We contacted Walbro’s top North American Distributor of these pumps as well as TI Automotive themselves to get to the bottom of this. Our findings were very clear, the information actually made a ton of sense logically and they even stated to us that there has been so much confusion in the recent months that they are drafting a press release from the production facilities explaining the reasons for the QR code/ non QR printed versions of the pumps.
Here is the truth boiled down to pure facts and information that cannot be disputed. At one point all pumps did come with a QR Code. This was due to the fact that in the infancy of this pumps production they were all made in the OE Production facility. Once the Aftermarket took off for these pumps they split the lines and make them under the same standards but in two different facilities.
QR code printed versions of these models are made for the OEM Market at a facility in TI’s Tennessee plant. These QR codes allow auto manufacturers the ability to track lots for things like recalls etc – The information generated by scanning the QR code is simply useless information to a layman but to an auto manufacturer or the production facility it could be the difference between needing to isolate an entire line of pumps vs just a small lot in case of a production issue (or even a suspected issue), this would help track how many pumps would affected by any issue and would give the production facility ample info to relay to the OE Manufacturer on how many units could have the same issue as well as giving them the ability to track and quantify the affects of these issues.
The NON QR versions are made for people like us in the aftermarket community at TI’s Caro, Michigan Plant. This plan is not setup to print QR Codes as these codes are not required by the aftermarket community. This is due to the fact that the aftermarket community does not typically recall items under the same standards.
In recent months TI ran out of capacity in the Aftermarket supply chain so pushed some QR versions of the pumps from the available capacity at the OEM manufacturing facility out to the Aftermarket community; we believe this is where the confusion started.
During our research we inspected pumps that we purchase from 3 different REPUTABLE TI Distributors; 3 of the largest in the industry. We purchase pumps for our in house installs, e-commerce as well as retail applications here in our shop. We inspected pumps from ALL of these sources and confirmed NO QR CODES TO BE PRESENT!
We went further. We Spoke to these suppliers. Got input, had them check stock, and even went as far as ordering a single pump (which is out of our character) overnight from one of the suppliers. We unboxed it and confirmed NO QR CODE TO BE PRESENT.
It is very unfortunate when misinformation gets spread around as fact . It is even worse when misinformation is spread to try and decimate the character of reputable businesses. Especially when the facts are so clearly off-base and stem from uneducated nonsense.
We are happy to help clear this confusion up. We will keep a close eye on this and we will post the official press release regarding this issue as it becomes available in the coming weeks directly from the manufacturer. Stay Tuned.
The true take-away from the information that we gathered is that the only way to be sure you have not purchased a counterfeit pump is to buy from a reputable source.
When IRP was founded 13 years ago we were looking to provide exceptional service and revolutionary products for the rotary community. Since then the team has grown and we have strived to be one of the premier rotary shops in the country.
Once again we have upgraded our facility to provide an even better service experience to our clients as well as open the opportunity to develop more products for the performance automotive community. The facility gives us the room we desperately needed to upgrade tooling & equipment which will allow us to continually expand services, update current products and release new products in the future.
Thank you for your continued support from all of us at IRP
Website and webstore is back up while we continue to upgrade in order to better your experience. The shipping calculator is not currently working so please contact us to order. If you don’t see what you need just ask.
Brian’s super clean 1998 Acura NSX came in for a check up. Biggest complaint was the car was not reaching operating temperature. We found and replaced a faulty thermostat.
